Cluster Cardigan Crochet Pattern

Cozy & Stylish: A Crochet Cardigan Pattern You’ll Love

There’s nothing quite like wrapping yourself in a handmade crochet cardigan—warm, stylish, and crafted with love! Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or just starting out, this pattern will guide you through creating a beautiful, cozy cardigan that’s perfect for any season. With detailed instructions, helpful tips, and customization options, you’ll have everything you need to stitch up your new favorite wardrobe piece. The Cluster Cardigan Crochet Pattern has some gorgeous texture that’s created by using a variety of stitches! This cardigan is made as almost one piece. This is one of my favorite ways to make a cardigan because it requires very little sewing!

Get To Know the Stitches

This cardigan uses a variety of stitches to create such texture. The first of these stitches is front post and back post double crochets for the ribbing along the bottom, the cuffs, and around the collar. Ribbing adds a polished, finished look to any cardigan. There are a few ways to add ribbing, but for this sweater we went for a texture rich option.

The second of the stitches used is the Lemon Peel Stitch (aka the Griddle Stitch). The Lemon Peel Crochet Stitch is a simple yet textured stitch pattern created by alternating single crochet (sc) and double crochet (dc) stitches. This results in a bumpy, pebbled texture that resembles the surface of a lemon peel. It’s a textured and dense, beginner friendly stitch that is great for sweaters, blankets, and washcloths.

The last of the stitches used is the Cluster Stitch (CL). The Cluster Stitch is a textured stitch that creates a slightly raised, puffy effect by grouping multiple incomplete stitches together and closing them with a single yarn-over. It is often used for adding depth and dimension to projects like blankets, scarves, and decorative pieces.

Choosing Your Yarn

For the yarn I used Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Taupe. This is a soft, acrylic worsted weight yarn. It has a pretty shine to the yarn. Any acrylic, worsted weight yarn will work great for this sweater. Choosing an acrylic worsted weight yarn for a sweater is a practical and budget-friendly option, especially for beginners or those looking for easy-care garments. Acrylic yarn is soft, lightweight, and comes in a wide range of colors and textures, making it versatile for different styles. It is also machine washable and durable, making it ideal for everyday wear. Consider a high-quality acrylic blend for added softness and breathability, ensuring comfort while maintaining warmth.

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Cluster Cardigan Crochet Pattern

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Materials
Worsted weight acrylic yarn (I used Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Taupe — 4 skeins for S/M, 5 skeins for L/XL, 6 skeins for 2X/3X)
I/5.5 mm hook
Yarn needle
Scissors
stitch markers

Level
intermediate

Pattern notes & stitches to know
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
bpdc – back post double crochet
CL – cluster – (*yarn over, insert stitch into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops* repeat from * to * once more in same stitch, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
st(s) – stitch(es)
rs – right side
ws – wrong side

· written in US terms

· ch 2 does not count as dc

· ch 1 does not count as sc

· This cardigan is made as one rectangle, with openings for the sleeves (like the graphic below). There is a little sewing across the shoulders. Then the sleeves are added with turned rounds and last the collar.

· Gauge: 14 stitches (alternating sc & dc) x 14 rows = 4” x 4”
 

Sizes:
(S, M, L) (XL, 2X, 3X) – The pattern is written in these sizes consecutively. Example, when the pattern gives the end of row count ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) dc) the 125 is for S, 139 is M, 153 is L, 167 is XL, 181 is 2X, 195 is 3X.

This sweater is a loose fit with some positive ease.

Approx Finished Size:
Bust: S (40”) M (44”) L (48”) XL (52”) 2X (56”) 3X (60”)
Length: S (18”) M (18.5”) L (20.5”) XL (21”) 2X (23”) 3X (23.5”)
Armhole Depth: S (7.5”) M (8”) L (8.5”) XL (9”) 2X (9.5”) 3X (10”)
Sleeve Length (from seam): S (17”) M (17.5”) L (18”) XL (18.5”) 2X (19”) 3X (19.5”)
Size Small pictured. I am 5’0” with 34” bust

CLUSTER CARDIGAN CROCHET PATTERN

ch (127, 141, 155) (169, 183, 197)

Row 1 (ws): starting in 3rd ch from the hook, dc in each st across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) dc)

Row 2 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *fpdc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sts)

Row 3 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *bpdc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sts)

Row 4 – 5: repeat rows 2 & 3

Row 6 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each st ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sc)

Row 7 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sts)

Row 8 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, *sc in next, dc in next* repeat from * to * across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sts)

Row 9 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sts)

Row 10 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 st, *CL in next, ch 1, skip 1 st* repeat from * to * across to last st, dc in last st ((61, 68, 75) (82, 89, 96) CL)

Row 11 (ws): working in each st and ch-1 space across, repeat row 7

Row 12 (rs): repeat row 8

Row 13 (ws): repeat row 9

Row 14 – (34, 34, 38) (38, 42, 42) (rs): repeat rows 10 – 13, ending with a row 10 repeat

This is the length before the armholes are made. To adjust the length, add or take out rows as needed.

Section A is made in the next rows. You will only work partly across the row, then turn.

Section A (optional: place a stitch marker at the beginning of this row to mark as row 1)

Row 1 (ws): (working in each st and ch-1 space across) ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * for a total of (29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 2 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, *sc in next, dc in next* repeat from * to * across ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 3 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 4 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 st, *CL in next, ch 1, skip 1 st* repeat from * to * across to last st, dc in last st ((13, 15, 16) (18, 20, 22) CL)

Row 5 – Row (18, 20, 22) (24, 26, 28) (rs): repeat rows 1 – 4

The height of Section A is the size of your armhole. Add or take out rows as needed.

Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing.

Section B (optional: place a stitch marker at the beginning of this row to mark as row 1)

With Section A on the right, join yarn to the CL next to the last stitch from Section A: Row 1. (skip the ch-1 space)

Row 1 (ws): (working in each stitch and ch-1 space across) ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * for a total of (65, 71, 81) (87, 93, 99) stitches ((65, 71, 81) (87, 93, 99) sts)

Row 2 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, *sc in next, dc in next* repeat from 8 to * across ((65, 71, 81) (87, 93, 99) sts)

Row 3 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((65, 71, 81) (87, 93, 99) sts)

Row 4 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, *CL in next, ch 1, skip 1 stitch* repeat from * to * across to last stitch, dc in last stitch ((31, 34, 39) (42, 45, 48) CL)

Row 5 – Row (18, 20, 22) (24, 26, 28) (rs): repeat rows 1 – 4

Or until it’s the same length as Section A

Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing.

Section C (optional: place a stitch marker at the beginning of this row to mark as row 1)

With Section A & B on the right, join yarn to the CL next to the last stitch from Section B: Row 1 (skip the ch-1 space)

Row 1 (ws): (working in each stitch and ch-1 space across) ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * for a total of (29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) stitches ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 2 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, *sc in next, dc in next* repeat from 8 to * across ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 3 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 4 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, *CL in next, ch 1, skip 1 stitch* repeat from * to * across to last stitch, dc in last stitch ((13, 15, 16) (18, 20, 22) CL)

Row 5 – Row (18, 20, 22) (24, 26, 28) (rs): repeat rows 1 – 4

Or until it’s the same length as Section A & B

Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing.

SEWING

Fold sections A & C towards the middle (section B). Line up the edges across the top with stitch markers. Use the long ends and a yarn needle to whip stitch the shoulders closed.

SLEEVES

With cardigan facing right side out, join yarn to the bottom of an armhole

Round 1 (rs): ch 1, sc evenly around the sleeve—make sure the total number of stitches is a mult of 6, join to first sc with sl st (approx. (54, 60, 66) (72, 78, 84) sc)

Round 2 (ws): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, sc in next, *sc dc in next st, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 3 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc3tog, sc in next, *dc in next st, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first dc with sl st (sts decrease by 2)

Round 4 (ws): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, sc in next, *sc dc in next st, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 5 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 st, *CL in next, ch 1 skip 1 st* repeat from * to * around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 6 – Round (41, 43, 45) (47, 49, 51) (rs): repeat rounds 2 – 5

Or until desired sleeve length before the cuff begins.

CUFF

(Optional: place a stitch marker at beginning of next round to mark as round 1 for the cuff)

Round 1 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc2tog, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st

Round 2 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join to first sc with sl st

Round 3 (ws): ch 2, turn, dc in each st around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 4 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, fpdc in next, *sc in next st, fpdc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st

Round 5 (ws): ch 1 turn, bpdc in first st, sc in next, *bpdc in next st, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first bpdc with sl st

Round 6 – 8 (rs): repeat rounds 4 & 5 – ending with a round 4 repeat

Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

COLLAR

With cardigan facing right side out, join yarn to the bottom left corner of the cardigan.

The collar is worked all the way around to the opposite corner.

Row 1 (rs): ch 1, sc evenly around the entire collar to the opposite corner on the bottom right—make sure the total number of stitches is an odd number

Row 2 (ws): ch 2, turn, dc in each st across

Row 3 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *fpdc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across

Row 4 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *bpdc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across

Row 5 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *fpdc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across

Or until desired collar width.

Fasten off.  Weave in the ends.

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