Cable Crochet Stocking Pattern

This Cable Crochet Stocking Pattern is so festive and cute! Because of the bulky weight yarn, it works up surprisingly fast. This stocking is a good size and can hold LOTS of goodies from Santa!

For this stocking, I used the same cable pattern as the Double Brim Cable Beanie. It’s such an easy cable stitch with just a 2 row repeat! This pattern calls for bulky weight yarn and a J/6.0 mm hook. But worsted weight yarn could definitely be used. I would go down to an H/5.0 mm hook and your stocking will come out slightly smaller than the pattern suggests.

Cable Crochet Stocking Pattern

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Materials
Bulky weight yarn in 2 colors, 200g each color (I used Paintbox Simply Chunky)
J/6.0 mm hook
yarn needle
scissors

Level
intermediate

Pattern notes & stitches to know
magic ring
sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
fptr – front post treble crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together, single crochet decrease

· written in US terms

· ch 1 does not count as sc

· ch 2 does not count as dc

· White is referred to as Color A and gray as Color B

· Pattern is made from the bottom up with turned rounds

· Gauge: 12 sc x 14 rows = 4” x 4”

· Approx Finished Size (with cuff folded): 19” x 8.5”

CABLE CROCHET STOCKING PATTERN

With Color A, make a magic ring

TOE

Round 1: ch 1, 6 sc in ring, pull ring closed tight, join to first sc with sl st (6 sc)

Round 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each stitch around, join to first sc with sl st (12 sc)

Round 3: ch 1, turn, *sc in 1 stitch, 2 sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st (18 sc)

Round 4: ch 1, turn, *sc in 2 stitches, 2 sc in next* repeat from * to * around (24 sc)

Round 5: ch 1, turn, *sc in 3 stitches, 2 sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st (30 sc)

Round 6: ch 1, turn, *sc in 4 stitches, 2 sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st (36 sc)

Round 7: ch 1, turn, *sc in 5 stitches, 2 sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st (42 sc)

Round 8: ch 1, turn, *sc in 6 stitches, 2 sc in next* repeat from * to around, join to first sc with sl st (48 sc)

Round 9: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch around to the last, 2 sc in the last stitch, join to first sc with sl st (49 sc)

Round 10 – 14: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join to first sc with sl st (49 sc)

Change to Color B

Round 15: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join to first sc with sl st (49 sc)

Round 16: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch around, join to first dc with sl st (49)

Round 17: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join to first sc with sl st (49)

(photos are from a different project, but the cable stitch is the same)

Round 18: ch 2, turn, *dc, fptr around dc from below previous round (round 16), dc in next, skip 1 stitch, fptr in next 2 dc from below previous round fptr in skipped dc from below previous round* repeat from * to * around to last stitch, dc in last stitch (49)

Repeat round 17 & 18 to Round 29

The space for the heel is made in the next round.

Round 30: Ch 2, turn, dc, fptr around dc from below previous round, dc in next, skip 1 stitch, fptr in next 2 dc from below previous round fptr in skipped dc from below previous round, dc, fptr around dc from below previous round, dc in next, ch 21, skip 21 stitches, *dc, fptr around dc from below previous round, dc in next, skip 1 stitch, fptr in next 2 dc from below previous round fptr in skipped dc from below previous round* repeat from * to * around to last stitch, dc in last stitch, join to first dc with sl st (27)

There will be a hole where the heel is. Leave it for now. The heel will be finished at the end.

Round 31: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch and ch around, join to first sc with sl st (49)

The next round is a cable round. When working around the heel use fpdc around the sc from the previous round.

Round 32: Ch 2, turn, dc, fptr around dc from below previous round, dc in next, skip 1 stitch, fptr in next 2 dc from below previous round fptr in skipped dc from below previous round, dc, fptr around dc from below previous round, dc in next, (around the heel work fpdc in the sc stitches from the previous round), skip 1 stitch, fpdc in next 2 sc, fpdc in skipped stitch, *dc, fpdc in sc, dc in next, skip 1 stitch, fpdc in next 2 sc, fpdc in skipped stitch* repeat from * to * 2 more times across the heel, *dc, fptr around dc from below previous round, dc in next, skip 1 stitch, fptr in next 2 dc from below previous round fptr in skipped dc from below previous round* repeat from * to * around to last stitch, dc in last stitch, join to first dc with sl st (49)

Repeat rounds 17 & 18 to Round 45 (49)

CUFF

Change to color A

Round 46 – 58: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join to first sc with sl st (49 sc)

The hanger is made in the next round. Make sure it’s lined up with the back of the heel.

Round 59: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch to the back of the heel (approx., 20 stitches) ch 6, sc in next stitch (do not skip any stitches), sc in remaining stitches around, join to first sc with sl st (49 sc)

Round 60 – 73: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join to first sc with sl st (49 sc)

Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

HEEL

(photos are from a different stocking, but the pattern is the same)

Join Color A to the corner of the heel space

Round 1: ch 1, sc2tog, sc across to opposite corner (approx. 19 stitches), sc2tog, turn so your working across the top of the heel, sc2tog, sc across (approx. 19 stitches) to last 2 stitches, sc2tog, join to first sc2tog with sl st

Round 2: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to opposite corner (approx. 17 stitches), sc2tog, turn so your working across the top of the heel, sc2tog, sc in across (approx. 17 stitches) to last 2 stitches, sc2tog, join to first sc2tog with sl st

Repeat round 2, decreasing the stitch count by 4 each round, to Round 8

Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing.

Use the long end to sew the opening closed.

Weave in the ends.

And you’re finished! I hope you love this stocking!

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