This week’s stitch is the Alpine Stitch! I love this textured stitch and the design it creates. I’ve used this stitch in some of my designs like the Daytrip Cinch Backpack and the Pinetop Beanie.
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Alpine Stitch
– Get the free pattern below or download the printable PDF for free HERE
Materials
115g Worsted weight yarn + small amount for the border (the same color that will be used for sewing – optional)
H/5.0 mm hook
Yarn needle
Scissors
Level
intermediate
Pattern notes & stitches to know
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet
fptr – front post treble crochet
rs – right side
ws – wrong side
Photo Tutorial: HOW TO CROCHET THE ALPINE STITCH
· written in US terms
· ch 1 does not count as sc
· ch 2 does not count as dc
· starting ch needs to be an even number
· this square looks great with stripes
· this stitch will curl in the corners – blocking is recommended
Approx finished size: 12” x 12”
Scrapghan Tips
· If you’re having trouble getting the sizing right, remember that it’s easier to adjust a square that’s too small than one that’s too big.
· If a square comes out too small you can add an additional round for the border, go up a hook size, and/or steam block and stretch the square to the size you want.
· The edges might curl. This can be fixed with some steam blocking. It won’t be noticeable after sewing.
· Each square has at least 2 rounds of border. For the last round of the border I used the same color for each square (the dark gray). This is the same color used for the sewing.
· The squares will be released in sewing order, starting with the bottom left. I left a long end for sewing on each of the squares. The long end is approximately twice the length of one side.
· Each square does not need the same number of stitches for the border.
PART 4 – ALPINE STITCH
Ch 42
Row 1 (ws): sc in 2nd ch from the hook and across (41 sc)
Row 2 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch across (41 dc)
Row 3 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch acorss (41 sc)
Row 4 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, *fptr in the dc in the row below the next stitch, dc in next sc* repeat from * to * across (41)
Row 5 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across (41 sc)
Row 6 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first 2 stitches, *fptr in the dc in the row below the next stitch, dc in next sc* repeat from * to * across to the last stitch, dc in last stitch (41)
Row 7 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across (41 sc)
Row 8 – 35: Repeat rows 4 – 7, ending with a sc row
BORDER
With the same color used for the square, work around the entire square
Round 1 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across to next corner, 3 sc in corner, sc evenly along the side of the square, working 1 sc in the side of each row to the corner, 3 sc in corner, sc in each stitch across to the next corner, 3 sc in corner, sc along the side of the square, working 1 sc in the side of each row, 2 sc in last stitch, join to first sc
Change to border/joining color
Round 2 (rs): ch 1, *sc in each stitch across to corner, 3 sc in corner* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st
Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing.
Weave in the other ends.
See you next week for Part 5!
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There is a mistake inn Row 6. It says to fpdc in dc’s from previous row, but previous row is all SC’s, not DC’s.
Hi! In the row below the next stitch (so in other words, the row below the previous row)
oops, I meant fptr in previous row DC’s, not fpdc…. sorry.
Is there a video for this one?
No there isn’t 🙂
Your photo looks so much tighter the way mine turned out. Mine looks loose and sloppy no matter how tight I tried to crochet. All of the other squares have turned out super so far. I am starting number seven and I have done that before for a baby blanket. Thank you for these patterns. I will be making 36 of them to make an Afghan for a king-size bed. 36 will cover the top and then I’m going to crochet a fitted 12 to 18 inch border for three sides. Wish me luck. Thanks again, Dennis
Hi! Have you tried going down a hook size? 🙂