Triangles and Fringe Crochet Top - This Triangles & Fringe Crochet Top Pattern is made with cotton yarn, and with the fun peek-a-boo sections it makes this perfect for summer!
Crochet Patterns | Sweaters and Tops | Wearable Items

Triangles & Fringe Crochet Top Pattern

April 4, 2018

This Triangles & Fringe Crochet Top Pattern is made with cotton yarn, and with the fun peek-a-boo sections it makes this perfect for summer!

I used a stitch that creates a fun triangle pattern. What I like best (besides that it’s cute) is that it’s a tall stitch and works up SO FAST! Seriously, you’ll have this summer top finished up in no time.

I might have a slight obsession with fringe! I love adding it to my spring and summer tops! It’s totally optional, this top would still be super cute without the fringe.

I used I Love this Cotton! from Hobby Lobby. It’s a nice and soft cotton yarn, especially for the price. Cotton is ideal for summer projects because it is a much lighter fiber and it’s easy to keep clean.

 

TRIANGLES & FRINGE CROCHET TOP PATTERN

 

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Materials
I Love this Cotton! Yarn in Black (2 skeins for S/M, 3 skeins for L/XL)
I/5.5 mm hook
Yarn needle
Scissors

Level
Easy+ -you must be very familiar with basic crochet stitches

Pattern notes & stitches to know
Sl st – slip stich
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Dc – double crochet
Tr – treble crochet

Approximate Finished Sizes:
Width: S (17.5”) M (19”) L (21.5”) XL (23”)
Length: S (17”) M (18.5”) L (20”) XL (21.5”)

Gauge:
12 dc = 4”
6 rows = 4”

RECTANGLES (make 2)

Each rectangle is worked from the bottom up

Pattern written in S, M noted in ( ), L noted in [ ] , XL noted in { }

Ch 58, (62), [66], {70} (leave a long beginning tail for sewing)

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across (57 sc, (61 sc), [65 sc], {69 sc})

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *ch 3, skip 3 stitches, sc in next stitch* repeat from * to * across (14, (15), [16], {17} ch 3 spaces)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, *sc in next ch 3 space, ch 3, in same space work (tr, dc, hdc, sc)* repeat from * to * across (14, (15), [16], {17} triangles)

Row 4: ch 6 (counts as dc + ch 3), turn, sc in 3rd ch of first ch 3, *ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of next ch 3* repeat from * to * across (14, (15), [16], {17} ch 3 spaces)

Repeat rows 3 & 4 to row 10

Row 11: ch 3, turn, dc in same stitch, *3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in sc* repeat from * to * across to ch 6, 3 dc in ch 6 space, dc in 3rd ch of ch 6 (57 dc, (61 dc), [65 dc], {69 dc})

Row 12: ch 3, turn, dc in same stitch and in each stitch across (57 dc, (61 dc), [65 dc], {69 dc})

Repeat previous row to row 19 (21) [23] {25}

Row 20 (22) [24] {26}: repeat row 2

Row 21 (23) [25] {27}: repeat row 3

Row 22 (24) [26] {28}: repeat for 4

Repeat row 3 & 4 to row 26 (28) [30] {32}

Row 27 (29) [31] {33} ch 1, turn, sc in same stitch, *3 sc in ch 3 space, sc in sc* repeat from * to * across to ch 6, 3 sc in ch 6 space, sc in 3rd ch of ch 6 (57 sc, (61 sc), [65 sc], {69 sc})

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing

You’ll notice the solid rows are wider than the triangle rows.  I blocked my rectangles to correct this a bit, but once it’s sewn and worn (since the solid rows are the bust area) it isn’t noticeable

CONSTRUCTION

Lay both rectangles together, use a stitch marker to mark where you want to sew the shoulders. I sewed about 13 stitches in on both shoulders.

Sew the shoulders closed with a whip stitch (I used the long tail)

Then mark where you want to sew the sides closed. I marked about row 17.

Sew the sides closed with a whip stitch (I used the long tail)

Fasten off, weave in you ends. Turn rightside out

OPTIONAL LAST ROW & FRINGE

Join yarn in the bottom corner

ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next stitch, ch 1, skip one stitch, *dc in next 2 stitches, ch 1, skip one stitch* repeat from * to * around, join to first ch 3 with sl st (it may not work out perfectly due to sewing and such, it’s ok. Just add an extra dc or skip 2 in the end)

Fasten off, weave in the ends

Then add 5 twelve inch pieces of fringe to each ch 1 space

And you’re finished with your new top!

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MORE HOMEMADE HAPPINESS:

1. Peasant Top 2. Ruffle Top 3. Honeycomb Top

 

 

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    1. Thank you! For this pattern you need a starting ch of a multiple of 4 + 2 more. I hope this helps!

      I don’t have any patterns in 2x right now. I just don’t know enough about plus sizes to feel comfortable writing a pattern for it. But if there’s a pattern you want to make, let me know and I’ll help you adjust it 🙂

      1. I’m working my first panel side XL, My count is on point but one of my sides is absolutely straight and the other side is leading to a weird angle. Is this normal?

  1. Breann…I love this top!! I am going to make one for my daughter and niece.
    Started “practicing” the triangle stitch yesterday and the sides of the rectangle are not straight!
    One side leans to the right and the other to the left. I think I am following the pattern exactly. i took pics but not sure how to insert them into this comment.
    Can u help please?

    1. Hi! You can message me the pics on my facebook page 🙂 Also, I blocked my rectangle to make it more even, you might want to try that

  2. I love this top! I have a question about row three. After completing the 17 triangles, do l double crochet in chain 3 at the end. I may be misinterpreting the 3rd row incorrectly, but it doesn’t say what to do after you complete the 17 triangles for size extra large. Thank you.

    1. Hi! The last stitch should be the sc from the triangle. There isn’t an additional stitch after that. Hope this helps!

  3. It would be really lovely if you can state the yarn weight like 3 light, 2 sport, dk, etc. I looked up the yarn used, however it doesnt’ state it either. thinking a 3 light weight would work just fine for this?

  4. im going to go with Buckle’s style of long really long fringe, should look great. Did this within 2 days nice pattern really nice!

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